Surfing is a lot like life in that we spend most of our time striving for something. You spend so much more time in the water exerting effort than you do actually riding the wave. Similarly in life, we spend the majority of our lives in the journey, and very little time at the destination. In fact, as soon as we arrive somewhere we are usually ready to go somewhere else.
The key to surfing and life is to enjoy the striving. To know that it makes you stronger. To know that effort takes on meaning, when you are striving for something meaningful. And when you do catch the wave you were striving for, appreciate that small window of time when everything seems to flow.